The st+yo is a short row turn that can be worked as the last short row before working in the round. I’m using it when I do neckline shaping short rows: I use German short rows for all the back and forth, but for going back to working in the round, I use the st+yo method as the last short row turn.
Here is a photo tutorial on how to work that st+yo.
Step 1: With yarn in front, slip 1 stitch purlwise.
Step 2: Turn work.
Step 3: Do a regular yarn over (bring yarn to front, then over the right hand needle to back). Make sure to pull it tight to avoid a hole later on!
Step 4: Slip first stitch purlwise from left hand needle to right hand needle.
Step 5: Knit on!
Working to st+yo on your way across it when working in the round:
Step 6: Knit to 1 stitch before yo.
Step 7: Slip one stitch knitwise from left to right needle.
Step 8: Slip stitch back, purlwise. Stitch is now twisted.
Step 9: Knit stitch together with yarn over through back loops.
Step 10: This is what it looks like!
Step 11a: When you’ve knitted on (there is a tiny gap if you didn’t pull the yarn over tightly)
Step 11b: What it looks like from the wrong side of the work. You’ll see a horizontal strand bracing 2 stitches, but it’s hardly noticeable.
When I’m knitting other designers’ patterns, I very often end in the dilemma of my gauge not matching the pattern (but having the perfect drape and feel), or the yarn I want to use not being the right weight. It’s silly, I know – I could change yarns or needles or something, but very often I don’t want to. What to do, then?
Well, sometimes I recalculate. But often, there is a pretty simple way of “altering” the pattern, which I’d like to share with you!
It is originally done in worsted weight yarn on a 5,5 mm / US 9 needle, but I just had this perfect yarn in fingering weight. Also, I didn’t really want a chunky cardigan, but instead more of a light weight one. Using fingering weight yarn on those large needles would make the cardi way too floppy and loose though, so I decided to work on 4 m / US 6 needles instead.
You can probably guess that if I just made my regular size (size M/37″ bust), I would end up with a much smaller garment. When you work on smaller needles and with thinner yarn, your gauge becomes tighter, so it takes more stitches per 10 cm / 4 inches.
The golden rule of (stitch) gauge:
More sts on 10 cm -> tighter gauge, smaller item. Often worked on smaller needles.
Less sts on 10 cm -> looser gauge, bigger item. Often worked on bigger needles.
As my gauge would be tighter (smaller needles + thinner yarn = more sts per 10 cm/4″), I could either choose to recalculate everything (!), or choose to make a bigger size to compensate for the missing width of the fabric. The last option is most likely the most appealing to everyone, isn’t it?
Use the below form to calculate which size you should make, based on the numbers for your gauge, the pattern gauge, and your chest/bust circumference:
How I went about determining the size I should knit:
Step 1: I made a swatch!
I know this seems like a huge hurdle for some, as most people just want to get on with knitting the actual garment. However, for garments especially, your gauge really is important. See the golden rule of gauge above! If the pattern says 10 sts per 10 cm/4″, and your gauge is 14 sts per 10 cm/4″, the number of stitches cast on will become a smaller item than if you had a gauge of 10 sts per 10 cm/4″. Also: Make sure to wash and block your swatch before you measure the final gauge. Gauge can change in washing, depending on how you treat it and what the fiber content of the yarn is. Treat your swatch the same way as you will be treating the finished garment!
So, I made that swatch using fingering weight yarn and 4 mm / US 6 needles.
The pattern called for a gauge of 14,5 sts & 25,5 rows, my gauge was 20 sts & 35 rows.
Step 2: Calculating the gauge difference
In order to calculate the stitch gauge difference between the two, I did this calculation:
my gauge / pattern gauge = difference in gauge (the number of sts in my gauge needed to work 1 st in the pattern gauge)
20 / 14,5 = 1,38
Step 3: Calculating the needed size
If I went by the bust size alone, the size I would need (37″) would correspond to:
My size * gauge difference = size I need to work by
38″*1,38 = 52,5″.
So yes, I would need to work the size that corresponded to a bust size of 52,5″.
The pattern’s biggest size was 53″, so that made it clear – that was the size I needed to make! It turned out quite alright, didn’t it?
Pitfalls HOWEVER, this method only works if you have an overview over the pattern and understanding of the garment construction. It’s absolutely the easiest for straight top down or bottom up sweaters and other items, but as soon as they’re worked on the bias (or using other funky techniques) you risk getting in a pickle. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but it depends wholly on the item in question!
A couple of things to note:
The above method with size change is for horizontal calculations only (stitch count).
You can do the same for vertical calculations (row count), but make sure to consider the differences that might occur. I was so lucky to have my row gauge vs. the pattern row gauge be the same percentage in difference as the stitch gauge, but that might not always be the case.
When working on something like a sweater, very often it will say to work to a certain measurement. Use that measurement instead of counting rows!
The garment I did this on had a lot of positive ease. I ended up with less positive ease than was recommended (me: 1″, recommended: 6″), as really the size matching a 53″ bust would have needed to be 59″ (but the pattern only went up to 53″). It was no issue here, but it might be in a more fitted garment!
Yesterday I published the Jagged Stripes pattern – a pattern for both a shawl and a blanket, which can be made as a temperature registration piece. Never heard of temperature registration? Well, in this case it is a knitting (or crochet) project where one row is done for each day, using a yarn color designated to that day’s temperature. After 365 days you can get something like this:
These are the temperatures I registered for Copenhagen (Denmark) during 2017 – the highest temperature of the day (left), the lowest temperature (center), and the average values (right). See how different it comes out depending on which range you choose?
For illustrating the Jagged Stripes blanket, I used the highest temperatures range (rainbows are so pretty):
A bit of background to mention here: When you search on Ravelry for “temperature”, you get all kinds of patterns (and projects!) for temperature items. However, most of them are plain, straight garter stitch items, nothing fancy. That might be great for some, but for me… I wanted something else! So I designed this one, garter stitch with a little twist.
I added a “neutral” color at the beginning and end of the item, as I do want the edges to be straight. This means there is a bit of short row shaping going on at the beginning and the end of the year – but don’t fret, it can also easily be made without those edges! You’ll then just have the raw zig-zag edge.
I have added an Excel spreadsheet where you can track your local temperatures, see what the blanket looks like after a while, and even customize the size you want based on your own gauge. I have based it on the values I would use myself, using degrees Celsius to record temperatures and using the colors I want to use. I have added a cheat sheet for looking up the degrees Celsius if you’re usually working with Fahrenheit though!
If you’re familiar with Excel and want to change colors or temperature ranges, see below for a tutorial.
There is a lot more information on the Ravelry pattern page, which can be found here: Jagged Stripes Note that this pattern is free – and I hope to keep it so indefinitely.
How can I modify the Excel spreadsheet for my Temperature Blanket/Shawl?
If you want to change either the colors used or the temperature ranges used in the spreadsheet, AND you more or less know your way around in Excel, here is a video tutorial on how to do so. I would however only recommend it if you’re an Excel user already – it can be easy to accidentally mess it up completely!
Please note that I’m using Microsoft Office 2013 on a Windows computer.
As some of you following me on Instagram may have noted, I’ve been thoroughly bitten by the Fringe bag bug. It may seem a bit silly really, especially for those that don’t really get the project bag frenzy, but I’m enjoying myself big time :)
One thing I did think about at some point was that sometimes, the bag can be “hard” to carry. Let’s say you’re at a knitting/yarn festival, you have your project in your Fringe bag, and you want to be able to have your hands free to grab yarn. The leather wrist strap / handle on the bag is nice, but it’s not very yarn fondle friendly, is it?
This summer, while I was on a natural yarn dyeing workshop, we went for a walk to collect dyeing materials. Walks can be boring ;) And being with almost all knitters, I was thinking no one would be bothered by me knitting my very boring project while walking. Queue temporary solution for a shoulder strap!
Ever since, I have been thinking of that strap. I really want something prettier, more comfortable, and complementing that pretty bag better. Receiving my 3rd (!) Fringe bag in the post, I impulsively decided to do something about it. Can’t be that hard, right??
I went to a local leather ware shop in downtown Copenhagen (Skindhuset – that place always inspires, makes me want ALL THE THINGS, and really wants me to pursue new hobbies like leather working…). As I suspected (I didn’t really do that much research before I went), they really had everything I needed.
1 leather strap, 120 cm x 3,5 cm. Cost: DKK 105
2 carabines. Cost: DKK 15 each, DKK 30 in total.
1 simple belt buckle. Cost: DKK 8.
studs (and tools to handle them) – I took the studs that are rounded on both sides, to make it all look prettier. Cost: Studs DKK 60.
a leather punch tool (what’s the exact English word for that?) – I needed one anyway!
So, how did I make it? Yeah, that’s easy and at the same time a bit more complicated, but as I spent some time wrapping my head around it, I thought I’d share. So here we go, a tutorial for you with the above materials:
Step 1: Punch two holes next to each other at each end of the strap. Punch a line of overlapping holes at one end – these are for accommodating the buckle. This end will be where we attach the buckle.
Step 2: To check whether that center line is long enough, and also where to punch additional holes for fixing the strap around the buckle, double the strap around it. Make sure the center pin/thingy of the buckle can move freely. To match the second set of holes to the first, mark in the middle of the existing holes with a pen.
And then of course, punch them! Also punch corresponding holes at the other end (using the same method, just folding it around one of the carabines instead).
Step 3: Punch holes for the buckle! I punched a hole every 3 cm / 1.25 inches along the center of the strap. You can add as many or few as you like, it’s always possible to punch more!
Step 4: Assembly! This is where you need to keep your tongue straight in the mouth, as we like to say in Denmark. This needs to be done in the right order and the right way around.
First, bring the strap through the buckle, the front of the (open!) buckle facing on the right facing side of the strap. On the photo, the end of the strap is to the right in the picture, so the pin on the buckle (buckle folded completely open) is pointing to the right as well. Second, bring the strap through the carabiner, the clasp facing upward (on the right facing side of the strap).
Third, double back the end of the strap and stick it through the buckle again from the left, wrapping it around the part of the buckle where the pin is, and sticking the pin through the opening made for it.
Step 5: Make sure it sticks! Now add the studs, bringing them through the holes in both layers and fastening them with a hammer. I got a nifty little tool for that, so I didn’t accidentally smash the studs to non-prettiness.
Fasten the other carabiner to the other end of the strap in the same way.
And voilá! You’ve got a shoulder strap!
On my initial prototype, I didn’t add a thingy that keeps the double straps between buckle and carabiner together (I don’t know the word for that in English at all, bear with me here!). So what I did was add a rubber band around them, which works fine but isn’t as pretty as it could be.
On the second shoulder strap I made, I did have a chance to add it. If you want to add one as well, make sure to do it as part of the Step 4:
1. Bring strap through buckle (step 4, first).
2. Bring strap through together-keeping-thingy.
3. Bring strap through carabiner (step 4, second).
4. Double strap under and bring it back through together-keepin-thingy.
5. Bring strap through buckle (step 4, third).
It’s a bit of extra wrapping-your-head-around, but once you get the picture it’s all easy.
Here is my favorite recipe for pebernødder / pepernoten / pfeffernüsse – a Danish / Dutch / German traditional cookie that appears around Christmas time. My recipe is based on several others, perfecting it over many batches. The main thing is that it contains a bit more pepper than usual, as I really like that – they make them a little bit more spicy. I hope you enjoy it too!
(oh, and excuse the pictures with bad lighting – that’s all I can manage when only baking during the evenings when it’s dark outside ;))
Recipe for Pebernødder Approximately 3 oven trays (of the Danish kind in size – that’s a bit larger than for instance American baking trays)
125 grams softened butter
60 grams muscovado/brown sugar
65 grams of white sugar/cane sugar
0,5 dl cream
250 grams wheat flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
2,5 teaspoons spice mix (see to the right) for a less spicy batch, suffice with 1,5 or 2 teaspoons!
1 part ground ginger
1 part ground cinnamon
1 part ground cardamom
1,5 parts ground black pepper
Whip the butter with the sugar until fluffy and well mixed. Add the cream, stir well.
Mix all the dry ingredients in a separate bowl. Add them to the butter mixture and knead the dough until everything is mixed well.
Roll the dough to sausages of approximately 1,5 cm / 0.75 inches in diameter. Cut into pieces of around 1 cm / 0.5 inches, and roll each piece into a rough ball.
Place the little balls on a baking tray lined with paper. Make sure to keep them apart a bit, as they will grow!
Bake for 9-11 mins at 190 degrees Celsius / 370 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep an eye on them not getting too dark!
Let cool on a rack. They will be a bit soft when coming right out of the oven, but don’t despair – after a couple of minutes they will harden up!
This is how they look in all their yumminess. Beware that they disappear fast – it may be needed to make a double batch straight away!
Luckily they’re relatively quick to make :)
Today is a really dreary, rainy day in Copenhagen, Denmark. It makes me want to knit with brightly colored yarns in order to get a bit of brightness in my day – and what is better than a summer sun yellow?
Today I published the pattern for Classic Plaits, a simple pair of socks that are worked toe-up, featuring instructions for two types of heel: Short row or afterthought. The detail on these socks is a simple cabled braid along the outside of the foot, making them interesting but still very quiet to look at. I can imagine them quite well in a sophisticated grey, or any other semisolid yarn out there!
At the end of May, I published a new shawl pattern: At An Angle.
As so often before, my love for garter stitch overcame me, and the different colors of this naturally dyed lambswool from (G)uld beckoned to become something fun.
Worked sideways from tip to tip, increases and decreases shape this triangular shawl. The angled stripe in the middle is placed using short rows, which is easy and almost invisible in the squishy garter stitch.
The color choice makes all the difference here! The simplicity of the shawl makes it easy to work and makes it fit for your casual every-day outfit, but can also accent a more dressed-up you.
The pattern is currently available in English as well as in Danish (the Danish name: “På Kanten”). I used a Danish yarn (the Scottish Lambswool from (G)uld, naturally dyed with indigo and madder), which is available in a number of OOAK shades, depending on what the dyers find in nature.
See more photos and projects from other knitters on Ravelry!
I know I’m not very good at keeping the blog updated lately. But I’ve been busy – designing stuff for you guys!
Today I published a sweater/pullover pattern: Roland. This sweater I made for my brother (Roland), and after quite a few false starts it ended up more or less perfect.
Simple stockinette, followed by a basketweave pattern on the body and sleeves. A fun an interesting knit, as well as soothing and relaxing. It’s great TV-knitting!
Even though it’s originally intended to be a men’s pattern, it can be worn by women as well. I included instructions for waist shaping in the pattern, if you want that – or use it with the straight body as a nice comfy sweater with a bit of ease!
The truly remarkable part of this pattern is that the sweater is truly reversible. The textured basketweave pattern looks good from both sides, and reverse stockinette stitch instead of ordinary stockinette also looks good. Just make sure to pick up those neck edging stitches carefully, and you’re good to go!
Ever since I discovered the KnitPro interchangeable needle series around 6 years ago, I’ve been a KP girl. I tried out a variety of their needles – wood, acrylic, metal, cubics, karbonz. The metal ones always were my favorites, though Karbonz were a close contender. However, the Karbonz did end up annoying me as much as I liked them, with needle tips coming loose and, with my most recent (pretty big!) order, needle tips and cables not always fitting. Over the past 6 months, I have been considering changing to a completely different brand – at least try it out, but perhaps change over for good.
Please don’t misunderstand me, I have enjoyed the KP metal needles immensely for 6 years, so I am by no means trashing them. I have just gotten curious about other brands, and may have found the KP’s wanting on a couple of features. What I still very much like about them is the stiffness of the cable, the sharp tips, and the ease with which you can change between different tips. The metal ones will still be in my tool collection, right until I completely wear them out or if another deserving knitter inherits them.
In the summer of 2014, I bought my first Signature needles. I was absolutely in love! I loved the aluminium that warms up in your hands quickly, the sharpness of the tips, the swivel join, and initially the soft cables. And a separate size cable for each needle size makes the join pretty seamless and comfortable.
Using them more, however, I have also discovered some weaknesses. The cable, mainly. With my tendency to just chuck any project in my bag before I leave the house, the cable gets scrunched up in the bag. It has tons of memory, so getting the project out everything can be a bit hard to work with for the first couple of minutes. Also, it’s not that handy for magic loop working, which I do a lot – with the cable being so soft, it’s not so easy to push through. And then, well… Additional cables costs a lot of money. They’re around 3-4 times the cost of the KP ones, and then you can only use them with one tip size. I have only bought one extra cable, for the 4 mm size needles, but it feels like I could just as well have bought a full fixed circular needle instead.
Still, I LOVE them. The needles themselves are awesome, and for a non-portable project which doesn’t require magic looping, they’re absolutely great.
Recently, my friends and I put in a big order for ChiaoGoo needles. The reason being that we have created our own sock club this year: One pair of socks each month, with yarn from stash. The rule is we just need to cast on, basically – so we were joking a bit that at the end of the year, we’ll each have 12 unfinished pairs of socks, still on the needles. That prompted an urge to buy more needles, of course! ChiaoGoo needles being our latest obsession for sock knitting, we all started wishing for those. A huge order for needles of all sizes was put in, mainly 2,25 mm (US 1), but also the numbers around that. And a couple of us wanted other sizes, just to try!
Having gotten some money as a present a short while ago, I thought this the perfect opportunity to try out the ChiaoGoo Twist interchangeables. Metal tips, the nice stiff red wire (perfect for magic looping and socks! Just make sure not to whack yourself in the face with them, that happens…), and an opportunity to also buy the ChiaoGoo Spin wires from their interchangeable bamboo range, which have swivel joins.
So I also threw the ChiaoGoo Twist small set in my virtual shopping basket.
“The small set” basically means it only contains the small sizes: 2,75 – 5 mm / US 2 -8 (3 mm / US 2.5 is missing though, which I found a bit puzzling…). The bigger set consists of sizes 5,5 – 10 mm / US 9-15.
ChiaoGoo has taken the consequence of the wires and joins issue, and divided the small/large set by two cable join sizes. The small set has a small cable join, the big set a bigger one. This makes sense to me – I would need a bigger join for a bigger needle if it needs to work alright with the needle thickness. In the set, 3 wires are included, one of each of the (I guess) most used lengths: 35 cm, 55 cm, and 75 cm (14″, 22″, and 30″). That’s the cable length itself – adding the tips, it adds approximately 13 cm to the length at either end. That makes for a final length of 60 cm, 80 cm, and 100 cm – exactly the wire lengths I use the most of.
I bought 2 each of each wire length, but from the Spin Bamboo range. That’s their interchangeable range with bamboo tips instead of metal tips, which have swivel joins on the cables and softer, see through cables. You can just about glimpse one there in the photo above!
Of course, I LOVE them! But not unconditionally.
I love the stiffness of the Red Twist cables, and I like the sturdy appearance given by the join with the tips. For some reason they seem more sturdy than the KP’s – I wonder if that has something to do with the opposite join (you stick the needle into the join on the cable, while on KP’s you do it the other way around)? Or have they just paid more attention to detail? In any case, I like it. It’s also easier to tighten the join between tip and cable for some reason, even though it happens with a tightening key just like with the KP’s.
The Spin cables however, I’m not sure I’m a fan of. They are a lot softer (they don’t have that metal core), and give a slightly fragile appearance. Despite the swivel join that I like a lot, and which would resist my twisting and turning of hands while I knit, I’m not entirely convinced that they will last super long.
(I have an annoying tendency to twist the needles in my hands while knitting – probably because I’m subconsciously trying to tighten the join all the time. On my convertible KnitPro needles, the join comes undone quite quickly. I discovered this while trying out KP Cubics, which turned out to be very uncomfortable due to that particular habit!)
Another little note: Only 2 cable stoppers were included in the set, and additional cable stoppers need to be purchased separately. The KP cables all have 2 cable stoppers in the package, which is pretty handy – you’ll have stoppers for all your cables! That’s not the case with CG though, so I will need to get a hold of some of those. A ton of cables doesn’t really make sense to me if I can’t just snatch the needles and secure the project before I move on, like I am used to doing.
I will be trying them out more, knit some more projects on these. Meanwhile, I will most likely only be doing one project at the time on a particular size CG needle, due to the lack of cable stoppers. Good thing I still have my KP’s and Sigs handy ;)